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Puerto Vallarta
 Puerto
Vallarta was once a sleepy fishing village along Mexico's Pacific Coast.
This started to change in 1963 when Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor were
romantically involved there during the filming of John Huston’s "The Night
of the Iguana." The publicity from this affair started the flow of tourists
and changed the focus of Puerto Vallarta’s economy from fishing to tourism.
Many visitors still make the pilgrimage to Casa Kimberley, the home once
owned by Elizabeth Taylor. My own recommendation is to skip this trip
because there is nothing to really see at this private residence that is
closed to the public. Fortunately, this area has retained some of the flavor
and charm of its past with many fine homes on the hillside overlooking the
bay.
Puerto Vallarta
is nestled in a tropical setting. It has lush, green hills and a
picturesque bay, Bahía de Banderas (Bay of Flags). Hotels line the bay’s
curving beach. The bay is generally calm but sometimes the water can have a
brownish-green color during the rainy season when rains and rivers carry
soil from the surrounding hills into the bay. One can find clearer water
south of town at Los Arcos and elsewhere. The arched rock formations of Los
Arcos are a popular stop for dive and snorkel trips. We went with Chico's
Dive Shop, a local institution on both snorkeling and diving trips. They
maintain a presence at the larger resorts offering short lessons at the
swimming pool and introductory dives for beginners.
 Downtown
is the original Puerto Vallarta pueblo (village) known locally in
Spanish as "Viejo Vallarta" (Old Vallarta) or more frequently "El
Centro". This old part of town is the part that is so attractive to
artists and romantics because of its quaint, old-Mexico casas (houses)
with their red clay-tile roofs and bougainvillea spilling from
balconies. Along the picturesque cobblestone streets that run throughout
the hills of the village, some of the street scenes you can see today
could easily have taken place 150 years ago if you squint your eyes and
ignore the hordes of tourists!
"La Plaza" or the
town square, is where you will find the "Palacio Municipal" or Municipal
Center and the 1929 Guadalupe Cathedral, the pride of all the local
people and Puerto Vallarta's most famous landmark. Its pretty
crown-shaped bell tower can be seen for miles around.
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"El
Cerro" (the hill) which rises steeply up behind the Guadalupe Cathedral
offers a spectacular panoramic view of "Old Town" and the Bay. A
mile-long "boardwalk" known as the "Malecon", runs along the downtown
oceanfront and the oceanfront street, Paseo Diaz Ordas. There are
several blocks of shops, galleries, gift shops, restaurants and night
clubs across the street facing the ocean. And this is "the" place where
residents and visitors, shoppers, diners and lovers stroll along the
ocean from morning to night. In the morning, about the time a few
joggers are out running along the beach, fishermen set up an open fish
market at one end of the "Malecon" near the Hotel Rosita (Puerto
Vallarta's first hotel) where they sell their catch-of-the-day to the
public. At the other end, there's an open air theater called "Los Arcos"
(The Arches) where different kinds of free performances such as
mariachis and puppet shows are given in the evenings, beginning at about
5:30 PM every Sunday and on special holidays. Local artists who paint
scenes of the town square and the Guadalupe Cathedral, set up to sell
their paintings nearby. |
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| Along the southernmost
edge of the downtown area is the Rio Cuale. And there's a long thin island
in the center of the river that divides it, running from the oceanfront to
the street that goes to Mismaloya (Insurgentes) and beyond. Its a beautiful
place to walk. And you'll find cute shops, top restaurants, the Cuale
Museum, John Huston Plaza and even botanical gardens. It's a favorite
walking area for most of the visitors to Puerto Vallarta. There's even a
shaky small wood plank and cable foot bridge crossing one side of the river,
for those who wish to go to Rizo's Supermarket or the town's most popular
tortilla factory across the street from them. With the influx of tourists
the town now has a Hard Rock Cafe and a Planet Hollywood though I have never
been to each one. In addition there are many bars and discos that can lure
the unsuspecting. I would suggest you head for the river walk area and south
of the river. It's a little quieter there and you can find a few nice
restaurants. We ate there one night and were serenaded by a young troubadour
who of course offered to sell us a CD of his biggest "hits". |
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| Just north of the Puerto Vallarta International airport is the
residential-resort development of Nuevo Vallarta, a project begun by the
federal government over 10 years ago. Nuevo Vallarta consists of a 1,150
acre site with 2.9 miles of beachfront. There are many homes that have
been built along its windy canals and its beautiful beachfront. Elegant
villas and estates line the channels, each with their own docking pier
and manicured gardens of bougainvillea, hibiscus and birds of paradise.
Yet the ecology of Nuevo Vallarta is well preserved. The residential
dream homes give way to a five mile stretch of tropical lagoon and
estuary frontage for home sites with private docks. South, the channels
weave their way through impenetrable tropical foliage. |
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 In
the last few years major hotels have been constructed such as the Radisson
Sierra Plaza, Diamond Resorts and Paradise Village Resort along the
expansive beach of Nuevo Vallarta. An 18 hole golf course is now complete. A
shopping center has been built but the tennis clubs are still in the
planning stage. Nuevo Vallarta is surrounded by water on three sides, and a
new marina (with 300 slips) is under development. Paradise Village is
our home resort and is now the biggest development in Puerto Vallarta with
its million dollar homes and condominiums included. We try to visit it at
least once every three years. We are very happy with it and always feel at
home when we are there. Usually we bring friends and there is never a
shortage of those when we tell them where we are going! Most often we go in
the beginning of June but next time we hope to go there sooner since that is
the beginning of the rainy season. At least we don't have to worry about
hurricanes.
This year my brother,
Jeff was able to join us and besides a few slips here and there he had a
fine time. It was nice to share our Mexican timeshare with him. We also had
our friends the Truong family including their son Benson who is around the
same age as my son Carlin. This was his first time in Mexico but soon he was
able to fit right in with the natives.
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 As
you can see from the pictures there are many activities to take part in. I
enjoy the jeep jungle tour that visits many interesting stops including
usually a local Tequila factory, an outdoor Super Go-Kart track, snorkeling
and just plain swimming the best. Shopping is another popular pursuit.
Besides the usual curios and t-shirts there is an abundance of pottery,
sculptures, masks, tequila and cigars. The best ones to buy are those from
Cuba and the Dominican Republic which are readily available. While most of
the tourist shops are along the waterfront, crossing the river and
continuing into the old town brings you to many of the local galleries.
There are also a lot of restaurants in this area. We stopped for lunch one
day at The Shrimp Factory after renting a Jeep. Puerto Vallarta is also the
site of a large Corona Bear factory. Stopping at their company store we must
have purchased one of everything they had on offer. On our return from
vacation we plan on having several BBQ parties in our backyard this summer.
This will give me a chance to learn how to use our new gas grill. |
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